Day 0 - Perth to Balingup
We drove down to Balingup from Perth (approximately 2.5
hours driving) and stayed with George and Marjorie at the Brookview
Bed and Breakfast. They allowed us to leave our vehicle with
them for the duration of walk. If you are in to staying at B &
B's then check out Brookview. We had a most enjoyable dinner and
evening with our hosts prior to our walk starting the next morning.
Day 1 - Balingup to Blackwood Campsite - 18.2
Kilometres - 200 Metre Elevation
We left Balingup at 8:00 AM after a hearty breakfast of
bacon & eggs (such luxury!) and we arrived at Blackwood Campsite six
hours later at 2:00 PM. An average speed of 3 kms per hour, a pace we
where to maintain all week.
The highlight of the day was two sightings of the
endangered Forest Red Tailed Black Cockatoos
(Calyptorhynchus banksii naso) on the Old Padbury Road just south
of the Golden Valley Tree farm (» 3.5 kms from
Balingup).
This section of the track provides a diversity of scenery
and track - some thick native undergrowth, glimpses of water (Dumpling
Gully), farm lands and pine plantations and one step heart stater hill
just after crossing Southampton Road.
It offers some less than exciting aspects such as
walking on Spring Gully Road between farms, some scraggly pine
plantations. However, the views from the Blackwood Campsite north
down the valley (Blackwood River) are quite special and make up for the
less desirable parts.
At the campsite, which is a fuel stove only campsite (no
open fires) due most likely to the pine plantations the views down the
valley are special. However, just to the west, the skyline is marked
by logging of a pine plantation.
We shared this first night with Maurece and Bianca (from
the Netherlands) who are end to ending the track, Rosemary who is walking
from Collie to Albany and Melissa & Lee & two friends who are
walking out at the Brockman Highway.
Day 2 - Blackwood Campsite to Gregory Brook
Campsite - 18.3 Kilometres - 150 Metre Elevation
We left Blackwood at 7:20 AM and arrived at Gregory
Brook six hours later at 1:20 PM. We made the decision today to cut
back on the amount of water we were carrying per person - from 3.5 litres
to 2.5 litres.
You leave the hut walking amongst long grass, weeds,
pines and marri before descending into the Blackwood Valley (Cardiac Hill
- 200 metres).
The track follows the Blackwood River passing the
Southampton Homestead (private land) before crossing the river at the
Southampton Road bridge. The track then follows the road for a short
distance before ascending on the Southampton Form (old railway
formation). This is a the Water Authority Millstream Dam catchment
area. As you get closer to the Dam, the track leaves the formation
taking you on a single walk trail through jarrah and marri before
rejoining the formation. This is a diversion away from the Dam which is
not accessible.
After leaving the Millstream Dam area the track follows
a creek for a while as you pass through bullich, jarrah, blackbutt and
marri. The track through here is old railway formation, single walk
trail, old forestry roads and current logging roads before it finally
descends to Gregory Brook and the campsite.
Overall a very pleasant days walking with water views
and not to many climbs. Really beautiful forest to walk through and a
great campsite at the end of the day! Gregory Brook is a magic site settled amongst the Jarrah
and other trees alongside the Brook. The Brook was flowing allowing
for a icy cold wash.
Day 3 - Gregory Brook Campsite to Donnelly River
Village - 20.8 Kilometres - 50 Metres Elevation
Left Gregory Brook at 8:30 AM and arrived at Donnelly
River Village 6.5 hours lately at 2:50 PM. A long day for us today
both physically and emotionally. Weight became an issue (just too much
food and fuel) plus a longer day than what is really necessary.
Blisters (particularly for Sarah) kicked in today and my back was bothering me
a bit as well. This was our "hump" day as Lee described
it. However, the walk is again special, with our first
strands of re-growth karri forest. The karri is just something special.
The track ascends out of the campsite and undulates
pretty much for the next four kilometres until Brockman Highway.
During this section you encounter thick water bush which creates a
tunnelling effect. Also a spur trail takes you to the Karri Gully picnic
area (200m). We did not visit the picnic area.
After crossing Brockman Highway, the track pretty much
follows the Willow Bridge formation until the Willow Springs camping area
is reached. From there the track passes through swamp banksia,
re-growth karri and follows/crosses numerous creaks. The track is
sometimes actual walking track, sometimes old and current forestry roads.
You often come across old road signs but no evidence anymore of the actual
road. Nature once again reclaiming her rightful place. The last one kilometre
into Donnelly River Village is a gravel road - not a nice finish to the
day.
For more information on Donnelly River Village see my Bibbulmun
Track page.
A real nice highlight of the day was at dusk, when our fire was shared with
"domestic" kangaroos and emus seeking their own "general
store." In accordance with good practice we did not feed them our
processed food, however, appropriate food is available for purchase from
the General Store.
Day 4 - Donnelly River Village to Tom Road
Campsite - 15.9 Kilometres - 50 Metres Elevation
Left Donnelly River Village late this morning at 10:00
AM and arrived at Tom Road campsite at 2:40 PM. We sent some surplus gear
back (small Trangia pot, sleeping bag liner and bowl) to Perth using
Australia Post's "Addressee to Pay" service, which means we pay
the postage when we collect the parcel at home.
Not a long walk today, but a really beautiful part of
the track with a nice spot at the twin bridges on Donnelly Drive (9.6
kms). Chance to freshen up in the stream before moving on through
re-growth karri along the Donnelly River.
What a surprise at the end of the day! Tom Road campsite
(kept from the original alignment) faces on to a pool in the Donnelly
River. A fantastic place to swim/refresh/fish. We had a quick dip in the
river, well I went in and OUT whereas Sarah stayed in for a little
while. Just too COLD for me!
This turned out to be the last night we shared a
campsite with Maurece and Bianca who decided to stay an extra night. Can't
blame them - well worth factoring this in to ones walk if you can.
Day 5 - Tom Road Campsite to Boarding House
Campsite - 22.8 Kilometres - 10 Metres Elevation
We left Tom Road at 6:40 AM in anticipation of a long
days walking. We arrived at Boarding House 8 hours later at 2:40 PM
after a stop for a coffee and cake at the Graphiti Cafe, just 50 metres
off the track on Graphite Road. Such luxury! The cafe opens 10:00 AM
to 5:00 PM Wednesday to Sunday. If you drop in (highly recommended) say hi
to Jessie and her family from Andrew and Sarah.
Today we saw our first and only yellow Nemertean on the
track. The Nemertean are described in Discover the Karri
Field Guide to the Forest Discovery Centre "as worm-like soft
bodied invertebrates that feed on fluids with a sticky, elongate
proboscis." Really amazing
creatures, a very bright clear yellow colour.
All up, a long but magic days walking which culminates
in a bit of "tricky" track design. Spot the campsite hut,
then keep walking pass it! Yep, you spot the hut on the other side of the
river, but the track keeps on going pass the hut (250 metres at least)
before you cross the river on the Boarding House Bridge (features on Map
5) and back-track to the hut. Sure fooled us and a few others if the
register is anything to go by. Something the guide notes should cover I
reckon.
Day 6 - Boarding House Campsite to Beavis Campsite
- 19.1 Kilometres - 150 Metres Elevation
As warned in the campsite register at Boarding House,
this was to be our hardest days walk. It took us seven hours
to get into Beavis.
A day of steep ascents and descents (both switchback and
without); changing bush - karri to jarrah back to karri as the track came
back to the river.
Saw our first reptiles today - two tiger
snakes. One of whom I nearly stood on (only 1/2 step to go
before Sarah yelled)! I think it might have considered my stepping on it
an act of aggression!
Long day rewarded with yet another magic campsite,
Beavis. Beavis has its own personal (man made) swimming hole just
out front. Also our first "Nornalup" hut design.
Day 7 - Beavis Campsite to Beedelup Campsite -
19.5 Kilometres - 100 Metres Elevation
A good walk through karri re-growth. Three hills
but nothing too major. Carey Brook is a great place to stop and refresh
before going on. It took us seven hours to walk in from Beavis. We saw one
snake today, possibly a Gwardar
(Western Brown) or Dugite.
The track passes Karri Valley Resort (other side of the
lake) but one must climb to the top of Beedelup Falls before picking up
the track to go back down to the Resort. The guide book suggests a track
that skirts the lake takes you to the Resort, however, we saw no signage
to indicate this. In fact comments in the Beedelup Campsite Register
suggest that the track is from the top of the falls. Whilst we did not
visit the Resort, others report of takeaways, meals and wine at the
Resort.
The Beedelup campsite is again well located along side a
creek which is big enough to soak in, but not to get a decent swim.
Spotted leeches here!
One downside to this campsite is the location of the
toilet. Someone suggested in the register that it has a different postcode
from the hut. Sure felt like it after a visit or two up the hill!
Day 8 -Beedelup Campsite to Pemberton - 23.7
Kilometres - 60 Metres Elevation
A long hike today, 24.5 kms into the motel in Pemberton
and the end of sojourn on the track for 2001. Left Beedelup early - 6:00
AM and hit Pemberton around 1:30 PM. A beautiful walk all the way until
the Big Brook Dam, when the "track" became a bitumen path around
the dam and except for two relatively short sections was road all the way
from there into Pemberton. However, the track passes through an arboretum
and Big Brook Dam does provide a nice rest stop.
The track also passes the Pemberton swimming pool - a
dammed creek - well worth making use of if the weather is good.
In terms of the town, it is a reasonable sized district town,
serviced by a hotel (cafe + accommodation), backpackers, motels etc.
The Post Office/newsagents is open 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM seven days a week
and the supermarket (SupaValue) on Dean Street is open 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM
seven (7) days a week. See my Bibbulmun
Track pages for further details.
Day 9 Pemberton to Perth
After overnighting and overeating and enjoying a real cold beer
in Pemberton, we caught the Westrail bus back to Balingup before picking
up our car and driving back to Perth. The end to a magic week on the
Bibbulmun Track.
