Stirling Ridge Walk

Stirling Ridge Circuit (Half Ridge Walk) – Easter 2002

By Nina - April 2002

In April 2000, a friend and I completed the Stirling Ridge Traverse (from Bluff Knoll to Ellen Peak) as a circuit - starting and finishing at the Rangers Station on Bluff Knoll Road, and spending three full days walking. The experience was fantastic, but it was very hard work – our packs were too heavy, our navigating was not always successful, we walked almost 20km further on the flat than we would have if we’d had a car shuffle, and we forgot the tent poles!

On my return visit over Easter 2002, I was much better prepared and knew what to expect… however the two friends that I took along didn’t know what they were getting themselves into!

Because of work commitments, we started the walk at 1pm on Friday, and finished at 11am on Sunday. This gave us two nights camping but only two days of walking, which wasn’t as much time as we would have liked to really make the most of the trip.

Note that in my opinion the guide by A.T. Morphet “Mountain Walks in the Stirling Range: Part 2” is essential to doing this walk. For other references look at Lonely Planet’s “Bushwalking in Australia” and Wild Magazine Issue 68 (back issues can be ordered). Also DOLA has maps covering the area but they are not of much benefit for this walk.

The circuit involves leaving the car at the north-east boundary of the National Park. Then walk 6km along a firebreak track at the edge of the Park, before reaching the site of the previous entrance, when Glenelg Estate was an access point for bushwalkers. (Now closed due to personal liability fears).

After talking to the Ranger I decided we would do the loop in the direction of Mirlpunda (The Arrows) to Ellen Peak, which meant walking a further 1½km along the boundary fence before taking the North Mirlpunda Track towards the beginning of our ascent at First Arrow. There was plenty of water flowing in the creek that we crossed after about 2km, which was surprising to us. This is the only water in the area apart from the water barrel at Third Arrow (which was full, but which can be quickly emptied if there are many walkers on the ridge according to the ranger).

We made our camp at the base of First Arrow, in an area that I don’t recommend as it is rocky and unsheltered and the scrub is very tough. We ended up bedding down on the gravel firebreak. In future I would find a campsite closer to the creek or allow enough time to climb First Arrow before dusk. Nevertheless we were comfortable enough, until the full moon rose and blinded us with its brightness!

In the morning we started the struggle up First Arrow, which is very steep in parts, and we were glad to have it over with early in the day. It is not a mountain I would like to have to climb down in a hurry. The path was not clear but it did not matter, as there was only one way to go – up. By the time we were close to the summit I had begun to recognise things from the previous hike I had done, and navigation became easier after that. At this point the walk becomes a rock climb, which isn’t too challenging unless of course you are utterly exhausted (or it is raining).

Near the top of First Arrow is the only time that the track description and sketches felt a little inadequate. Someone had very kindly marked a rock at one point with a “Yes!” and an arrow, giving me some relief that I wasn’t the only one confused by the track notes at this point. The wind on the top of the ridge was extremely strong, which was concerning for my companions as they were both lightweight girls who feared being blown off the southern side. The only casualty in the end was a camera bag, but even this was eventually recovered.

The walk over Second Arrow was more challenging than we wanted, as we were keen to escape the wind and rest in the sheltered passage at First Arrow. Eventually though we did get to rest, warm up and eat, sitting on the nice soft grass in the chasm between the north and south peaks of the tallest Arrow. We were too tired to even go and visit the nearby camping cave. First Arrow was where we could collect water by sending the most agile member of the group up to the water barrel that collects drips off the rocks. Unfortunately she found a dead mouse nearby that had very likely been drowned. (Hint: don’t forget to sterilise the water.)

After lunch we started off quickly as we had to reach our next camping spot, below Ellen Peak, before dark. We finally started passing other groups who were heading to the cave at First Arrow. The terrain over Baker’s Knob to Pyungoorup Peak was tougher that I remembered, with plenty of descents and ascents. We had a pleasant surprise when we came across an echidna on the path near Little Arrow. We thought it a very strange location for an echidna, and it must have been confused because it started trying to bury into solid rock in an attempt to get away from us.

The next challenge was the traverse around the south face of Pyungoorup Peak, through the thick reeds and short steep scrambles that seem to go on forever. I quite enjoyed it on this trip, compared to how much I hated it on the previous trip, but my friends were very relieved when it was finally over.

We did not have time to climb either Pyungoorup or Ellen Peak, as we were determined to make it to the saddle below Ellen Peak before sunset. This was a pity because I had not yet climbed Pyungoorup and I imagine the view back to Bluff Knoll would be spectacular; also there is a book to sign at the top of Ellen Peak. We took the track around the north side of Ellen Peak and then down the steep spur to the obvious clearing in the track which the guidebook indicated was a suitable spot to camp.

This time we were more fortunate in our campsite as the ground was flat and clear of rocks and there were plenty of trees. We erected our small tarp and, hoping that it would not rain went to bed in the open. Unfortunately the rain started at 10pm. We huddled variously under the tarp and in plastic garbage bags and survived the night even if it wasn’t comfortable. We had chosen not to carry a tent because we were trying to keep weight down. (I estimate that I carried 7kg plus water.)

In the morning we tried to photograph the sunrise and the clouds rolling over the mountains. We had a lovely view but the people camping in the cave on First Arrow that morning would have been enveloped in cloud and probably freezing cold.

We set off at 7am with a hot shower beckoning. The final day involved finishing the descent to the flat ground, walking along a quite obvious trail to the boundary fence, and then the last 6km slog along the firebreak to the car. The final 6km is definitely the worst part of the circuit, especially as the last few kilometres are on soft sand! With great relief we made it back to the car and drove to the friendly Stirling Range Retreat for a $3 shower.

The Half Ridge Walk is very challenging for people who don’t do many multi-day hikes or mountain walks (like my friends and I). However it is a lot more rewarding than walking around the mostly flat areas closer to Perth and the ocean. It requires care because of the scarcity of water and the changeable weather in the Stirling Ranges.

Although it took a little bit of time, my friends have fully forgiven me for dragging them up the mountains, and they are keen to do it all over again. (I think.) If anyone is planning to do this walk and has questions, feel free to email me.

Nina

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